While San Francisco has a multitude of things to do, I would not call it a museum-city. In fact, I have been unimpressed by their MoMA in SOMA and the DeYoung in Golden Gate Park. Average, to say the least.
But not so the Legion of Honor museum. My uncle, who has lived in the city for nearly fifteen years, has a magic touch to touring around the city to find its gems, hidden spots, parks, walks, food, whatever you aim him at. For this visit, this time my mother, sister, wife and I went to visit him. First time we went as a group. Often, the group thing means not everyone gets to do what they want — but the Legion of Honor was a truly exceptional place. He suggested it and since it was at the end of a long slow tour of Pacific Heights and its magnificent mansions, then the over-wooded, Eucalyptus tree heaven of the Presidio, the museum seemed like the right stop.
Being at lands’ end, it has spectacular views for the parking lot, and a moody, French feeling to the architecture. It is spare with an expanses of marble courtyard but beautiful, especially with a Rodin “Thinker” grimly dominating a large open area as you enter.
What was unusual was that the collections in and of themselves were unimpressive, though I was pleasantly surprised by the depth and quality of the collections. Even the antique furniture which I usually ignore was tasteful and presented nicely. What makes it the best museum in San Francisco? It’s physical presence, it’s marble-topped perch in a thick woods and quiet rooms that seemed to capture the spirit of peace a museum should own (versus the crowds and hordes of gaping humans who crowd the art and block your view).
Just for the record, while none are outstanding, the range of European art, sculpture, ancient relics flow in a very peaceful way, room to room.
http://legionofhonor.famsf.org/
Outspoken Traveler 