At the heart of the labyrinthine Medina of Fez, Morocco lies the very ancient leather tanneries; they are a site unlike any other you will ever see. As you should always have a tour guide in this maze, it is inevitable to end up in the leather shops that overlook the many swirling pools of dye, leather, and the overwhelming odor of rotten flesh and the outcome of their work, the plethora of leather goods.
The first thing you experience is someone handing you a twig of mint and waving for you to put it under your nose; you wonder why until you reach the end of circuitous narrow stairs and seemingly random connected leather showrooms, with floor to ceiling goods of every kind, color and of course, price.
As you come out to a balcony stories above the multi-colored rows of giant vats of dye, you quickly put the mint as far into your nose as possible — the putrid smell of cow flesh and hides is overwhelming. But of all the sense engaged, it is the eyes that are overwhelmed far more than the nose.
Then you realize why this nearly 1,00 year-old place and process is a UNESCO site; there is nothing like it.
The guide may tell you the ancient and complex process for preparing the hides, tanning, drying and preserving. The photo attached of the colored pools of dye barely do it justice; the hustle of men as they do their work is hard to follow.
Then you turn around and a wall of leather, walls and room upon room of every kind of leather craft, calls to you — shop! Haggle! A wall of slippers. A room of hand bags, one of wallets, briefcases, backpacks, belts, shoes, jackets…it is too much and you quickly are over-stimulated. But if you like us, it affords a great place to buy unique gifts.
HAGGLING: One piece of advice: you must haggle. I was never that good at it, and actually have failed miserably in places like Hong Kong and Cambodia, where it is part of the culture, to work the price, it was tiresome and frankly, the poverty often made us think: we can afford it, just pay. But this is different. As the goods you gather to buy pile up (and they will) you should start by asking for everything at half-price. The staff are good with English and aggressive and work to confuse you with a swirl of fast moves, throwing prices and complaints in one sentence, begging, cajoling and finally shrugging and relenting. It can be exhausting, but if you feel that coming on, close the sale, hold firm, pack up and go.
And keep the mint close at hand until you leave!
Outspoken Traveler 