Day 1: the drive from Rome to Abruzzo takes around 5 hours, (great highways); pass through the majestic Gran Sasso mountains; maneuver the confusing outskirts of Civiello Casanova outskirts; hills smoothing to tumbled flatland fields, the Google GPS going bonkers, being so off the beaten track, but the paper map, cumbersome and incredibly accurate;
The row upon row of vibrant fields of grain and fruit as we arrived; the (closest) local pizza restaurant that sat in the middle of nowhere, had these outrageous pork skewers, no English but lots of furtive glances and smiles coming our way.
Day 2: Morning: discover the property…a great pool ensconced in stunning flowers and bees, bees, bees; a walk around the empty environs, fields upon field, orchards galore, no people; and the Casa Vecchio sign that proved so valuable night and day to guide our car back to the driveway and farm house. (Not a place we’d rent again; while the residence was lacking the location balanced it out; not even going to bother with any photos).
Day 3: Off to Chieti, one of Italy’s oldest cities, running along a spine of rock rising from the sea; early Sunday afternoon stroll while everyone had siesta, the clashing of plates ans voices behind shuttered houses; discover the remnants of a religious festival, carpeted by carefully knot emblems, symbols we did not understand. But carefully designed and laid, a grass carpet that went on for nearly a quarter-mile, starting from the cathedral, moving through main street of the town.
As we strolled from the cathedral through the town and back, we encountered a remnant of an ancient Roman bath, oddly situated among residencies. Then as the siesta eased into evening, enjoyed the throngs of families and couples doing their traditional early evening slow walks, the passeggiata, which is music to the eye because everyone looks relaxed and so alive. The gelato store opens and we cool our palettes with the local version of the many flavors, especially the dark chocolate.
Day 3, evening: we drive from the ridge top, through the fields, to stunning Loreto Apurtino, a town of barely 8K, perched high, small and ancient above the rolling countryside; be sure to park outside the medieval walls, we got caught in the single street, single lane and had to reverse our way out of the town; looking for dinner, we instead encounter a single lane lined with smaller, less complex but beautifully crafted flower and grass emblems, all leading to the towns’ church where choirs and congregation were celebrating, which looked like First Communion.
Following the only steps around the church, going down a level we stumble upon an empty restaurant, Convivio Girasole; we include a photo of the menu because between the chick peas, beans, cod, pasta, gnocchi, sauces — it was a local gastronomic wonder! No one else was there and the owner, again minus English, was almost surprised to see us, but was welcoming and chose most of our food for us, which was wise because it was flawless, overwhelming and unforgettable.
As we ate, a procession from the church walked past the remnants of the old cathedral outside, the priest swinging the incense in the golden containers and chanting…
As we were leaving, we discovered was the town’s castle has been turned into a luxurious hotel, a 5-star, Castello Chiola ( http://www.castellochiola.com/en/home) which specialized in weddings. It was renovated but kept true to the massive medieval ramparts and vaulted interiors. If we hadn’t had a residence, we would have checked in; the views were commanding, befitting a fortress perched safe above the valley.
As we drove out, the residential area outside the walls was the scene of a chaotic street festival, with blue and white lights strewn across the road, carnival time! What a town, such tiny magic looming large.
Outspoken Traveler 
Leave a comment