Her eyes were a brilliant blue and energy just flew off her. Elizabeth Barrett, proprietor, is not just the owner, she clearly is the heart and soul of this special place with the odd name — the Bervie BnB. The Bervie is how it is listed in Search engines — http://www.bervieachill.com/.
Moving up the Wild Atlantic Way, I discovered a gem on Achill Island. After having mediocre food in Westport and Newport, I needed a good dinner to reclaim my palette; and Terrence, an ambassador for Achill of sorts whom I met at the local Aquarium (another tale), told me to go to Bervie’s.
Looking out on the ocean and just past the long and beautiful Keem Strand, The Bervy is low to the ground, and barely obstructs the magnificent view of Minaun Heights and distant cliffs. A fresh white with blue accents greets you. Originally it was a 19th-century Coast Guard converted to a BnB in the 1930s. The dining area is a large sunroom built onto the rear of the building, facing the ocean from every seat.
The one server had a thin audience of residents; I took a table that gave me the best view and made me hope the food was nearly as rich as the vistas in the distance. Limited it was: fish chowder, cold fish salad, desert.
The chowder was perhaps one of the best I have ever had; it hit that right mix between thick and too thick, the two parameters of a true chowder. (Watery chowder is disgusting). It was pinkish from the salmon. For someone who once went through a “Best Chowder” phase, which included all of Cape Cod MA one year, this beat them all.
The cold salad had the usual piles of carefully cut and presented veggies, one grouping of salmon in light mayo, another salmon with lemon, and some shrimp.
It was very, very good. The kind of salad that makes you feel healthier as you eat. It reminded me of something you might get at the Oyster Bar in Grand Central Station NYC, but better. It was about taste, not painting the plate. Simple and gracious. Same day fresh.
As I left, I was browsing the small lobby when Elizabeth appeared and we had a chat. She had been the chef that night, and as much as she demurred and would not accept the compliment, I was effusive without being fatuous — it was that good.
We spoke and I learned some of the history — her story was like sipping someone else drink and wanting it for yourself and almost resentfully giving it back. Time would not allow for a deep dive into the many stories, after all, she ran an inn. The Coast Guard, cannery, BnB for nearly a century, the walls and counter were lined with history. As a gift, she gave me a watercolor postcard of The Bervie (featured image).
From the dining room with all the expansive beach and mountain views to the light colors and a general sense of comfort, this was not your usual BnB. She spoke of families coming back year after year, generation after generation.
I will find my way back. When I asked her if she wanted to share any thoughts on a write-up, she told me: “Even when the chef is here, the menu is small. I’d rather have fewer offerings of higher quality.”
With kindness and a light touch, I had stumbled upon a place of beauty and ease.
She was born in room…well, that’s her business and requires a visit.
Outspoken Traveler 
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