Lovely Kenmare. Amazing, special town in so many ways. But food? How can you have so many award-winning, Michelin-rated restaurants in one small Irish town? I am sure there is a story behind it – it is Ireland after all — but the reality is, Lagom, Mulcahy’s, No. 35 and Lime Tree, were so varied and brilliant in their dining experience, it was a foodie’s delight! And I have yet to get to a few more (Davitt’s, Rookery for breakfast, Lansdowne Hotel, and a couple more!)
Truth be told: I cannot recommend one restaurant over another. All different, all delightful in food and service. In fact, Neil at No. 35 and Debbie at Mulcahy’s and Megan at Lagom were all so funny I literally had tears in my eyes!
Brendan, the chef and owner, seems to up his culinary game every time I go: the food, service, soothing decor are on joyous display. Recently, I asked what “contemporary Irish cuisine” was and got a wonderful tour of his ‘inner chef’. He went on a trip through NOMA Nordic inspiration to his own personal thoughts and inspirations on his search for the perfect balance of food with such deep curiosity, perfection and taste…Lagom, once again, living the nature of balance in all things. From the creative appetizers, to the entrees, to the gentle flavor of the garlic/butter brushed potatoes and veggies.
From the St. Tola goat’s cheese tortellini to the Grilled hake fillet, you could not find a more delicious meal that lingered on your tongue. Ok, one more: the black sole on the grill with the bay muscles.
They also have a wonderful, stylish, spacious B&B.
Contact: info@lagom-kenmare.ie // 00353 64 6648423
The BEST pate I have ever had. And it was chicken, whereas I usually favor duck. Honestly, if the restaurant is not top notch I wouldn’t even bother wasting the calories and the inherent indulgence pate denotes.
The chicken chasseur was exquisite…delicate pieces in a creamy sauce baked inside a pastry cup — was one of those “What are they having? Change my order!” Or maybe it was the beef Wellington that was the best…or the brown bread with the sweet crust (molasses?)…hard to decide, because it was all so damn perfect.
A quirky detail: ever since visiting Spain I have fallen in love with sweet vermouth with an orange slice over ice; the Valentia Island vermouth they serve was found nowhere else and was the best I have ever tasted. Buy it down the street from the off-license store. Take it home.
Mulcahy’s is another example of food done with elegance, simplicity and incredible fine taste. Their story is worth reading before you go.
Contact: +353 (0)64 664 2383
For me, the test of a great versus ok restaurant that has airs of being excellent is duck. I see duck, I order duck. I always ask how the chef prepares it; not that it will change my mind I just want to know. My perspective is that it is one of the hardest dishes to cook and if you can pull it off, everything else is probably very very good.
The ‘drunken muscles’ were different from any i have ever had and were so delicious I wanted to order it as an entree.
And since I ate there twice in a week, my second entree was angus beef on perfect mashed potatoes — ok, the kale could be left behind, but that is a personal comment, it did not detract from a great meal an added to the duck’s flavors; it just reminded me that I gleefully await the day kale disappears from all menus.
Back to the food: the arancini balls were a touchy spicy, but perfectly prepared. I had never had them, so how do I know they were perfect? It was just that good!
Contact: info@no35kenmare.com // +353 (64) 664 1559
This beautifully remodeled 19th century schoolhouse had a quieter, more relaxed vibe to it. The menu was one you poured over, going back and re-making choices because each time you read it, you changed your mind — yeah, that sounds even better! But it was all delicious.
The stuffed duck croquettes with mild cole slaw was both a starter and entree; so rich, I took one home and the next day relived the exquisite taste. Again , I ate there twice and the starters just took me away: shellfish chowder, thick and warm the gullet. The prawn cocktail: simple but incredibly fresh. Salad of St Tola Goat Cheese with beetroot and honeycomb…makes me wonder how I ever got to the entrees!
The two entrees were a lobster salad that was sooooooo good. And the duo of lamb, one a lollipop, the other a small terrine with lamb shepherds pie. For atmosphere, Lime Tree won the day, but the one thing was they served too fast. Still, sometimes you have to respect the management trying to delight palettes as well as move tables since they are so popular.
Outspoken Traveler 
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