Lisbon is a great base for day trips. We took three: Sintra, and Obidos to the north; Evora to the west. All are highly recommended.
This is about Evora and a restaurant and lunch that should not be missed.
Hugo, my Lapa Palace concierge, one of the all-time best concierge’s, recommended renting a car for a day trip to Evora. He was one of several who did so. Renting a car was easy through the hotel —a feat not to be underestimated — and off we went.
Two known goals for the day:
1. Lunch at a local restaurant, Maureen (of Pig, Olive, Grape who gave us a whirlwind and wonderful gastro-tasting tour of Lisbon) had recommended the day before.
2. See the Roman temple and nearby Gothic wonder of a cathedral.
This town lies almost due west of Lisbon, 100 miles on a well-paved, easy highway. We noticed a dominance of a certain type of tree but no agriculture, the ground looking too parched; groove after groove of trees trimmed in the oddest way, we passed for what seemed like miles. then once we saw the cylindrical nature of the bark carved off, and the high, neat tree tops like hats, we realized they were cork trees — used for the burgeoning cork industry.
This is not a small city; it is very ancient, back before the Romans, but it has melded the ancient roman, Christina and commercial areas with ease; it was odd to see the Roman temple so near the Gothic cathedral.
To this day, it is still a walled city. An aqueduct goes around large parts. Few streets fit the tiny cars, and there are many pedestrian streets and passages. Parking near the aqueduct, sheer luck and fate found ourselves 5 minutes walk from the restaurant — Taberna Tipica Quarta Teira.
Arriving, we were immediately intercepted by the owner’s son, we were told he served one lunch menu a day, five courses, and please it and enjoy! He had a bubbling, electric yet sanguine energy of a proud chef and owner. There was no need for a menu, you just sat and got served. This food, while truly local and peasant, was beyond good. The plates just rolled out out, one set after another…meats, breads, fish, sweets…
The simple atmosphere, locals relaxing, tables crowded, kitchen noisy, owner attentive and laughing…what a great experience.
After the meal — not used to 5-courses for lunch — we needed a good walk, and so it was. We went up the hill from Quarta and one block over was the town square and the Roman ruin. The cathedral cost money to enter, though it boasted relics, a museum and the highest spot for a view of the city, but it just did not feel worth it. From here, the pedestrian streets were easy to follow and amble about.
From the Roman temple ruin, the combination of local and highly touristy shops lined all the side streets over to the two beautiful churches.
Without question, while the photos do some justice to the city, it seems like it has gone through major renovation and trynig hard to keep the balance between the ancient and the modern.
And my god, what a meal!
Outspoken Traveler 
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